All you need is a length of shade cloth, two fence battens, less than a
dozen short flat head nails and a hammer.
The shade cloth needs to be long enough to go across the top of the runs and hang over the sides. I’d go completely down the sides to give wind protection as well. Roll each end the shade cloth around a batten a couple of times before nailing at intervals – this will give strength and stop ripping and fraying of the shade cloth. Then place it over the kennels as shown in the photograph. There’s no need to tie it down
as the weight of the battens holds it tight even in the worst wind.
This is so cheap and easy to make there really is no need for dogs to go without a cool spot to lie in. Many motel kennel arrangements are totally inadequate in this respect, regardless of the hefty price you pay for them. If they are facing the sun it streams in the doorway and there is nowhere that dogs can shelter from the searing rays. So have a heart, gather up your loose change for shade cloth, rummage around for two fence battens and spend a few moments of your time making your hard-working dogs’ lives a bit more comfortable.
I spotted this wonderful idea on Trademe and the kind owner emailed me their photo so that you can see how it works.
While on the subject of kennels, below are two methods to protect timber kennels and runs from being devoured by bored youngsters, or even some older dogs who have acquired the habit, much like us chewing our nails.
Over the decades I have doused the gnawed wood with diesel or pastes of chilli and curry mixed with water, but to little avail; they helped to a degree with some dogs but nothing really worked 100%.
A few years ago I had a brainwave that works a treat and it’s easy to do, though somewhat unpleasant. Arm yourself with a small container, a wee spade, a short stick and a brush (paintbrushes work well). Place a couple of fresh soft dog faeces into the container – I prefer to use the ones from the offender – and using the stick and enough water, mix to a runny paste – one that is neither too liquid nor too solid. Paint the smelly brew everywhere that is chewed and also on anywhere that looks like it could be targeted.
I’m careful where and how I paint, I don’t want to turn the whole kennel and run into something unbearable for the dog to live in; I just want it to stop chewing any protruding wood.
Keep an eye on all the woodwork over the next few days as you may need to reapply the paste in some spots or paint somewhere that you have missed, but usually the habit is broken quite quickly.
Recently I bought some Stockholm Tar, an ingredient in a dressing for horses’ hooves. The tar is hideous stuff, foul smelling and almost impossible to get off your fingers.
About that time a young dog started chewing the edges of the run grating. It gave me another brainwave. I carefully smeared a small amount of tar where the dog was chewing: it stopped immediately. The tar is waterproof so when I hosed the run it remained protected.
The principle here, as with all dog problems, is to deal with them immediately so undesirable habits aren’t formed.
I keep a particularly close eye on young dogs as they are the most prone to mischief!
• Anna Holland is teaching people dog training. For more information www.annaholland.co.nz or Ph 07) 217 0101 or This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
