Cheesed off!
Boutique cheesemakers in New Zealand are being forced out of business by several factors, including higher input costs and cheaper imports from the European Union.
New Zealand's 2021 champion cheesemakers prefer to remain a small artisan family business.
Annie and Geoff Nieuwenhuis have been running Nieuwenhuis Farmstead Cheese in Hawke's Bay since 2018.
The operation is simple - about 60 goats are milked daily and their milk is turned into delicious cheeses within 30 minutes of milking.
At the NZ Specialty Cheese Association awards earlier this year, they claimed the top award after 300-plus cheeses from 35 companies were judged by 32 experts across a tightly contested field.
Annie told Dairy News that their dream was to enjoy goat farming and to be able to craft amazing cheeses. To receive the top accolade was overwhelming and humbling, she says.
The couple were inspired by former winners, the late John and Jeanne van Kuyk of Aroh a Organic Goat Cheese. They won the top award in 2016.
"They were our inspiration, incredible people who love their goats," she says.
Annie says while they aspired to win a medal at the NZ Cheese Awards, they never thought of winning the champion cheesemaker title.
The Nieuwenhuis used to rear up to 500 dairy beef calves every year and have a passion for rearing and looking after animals.
Their foray into goat farming began in 2010 after travelling through Europe with family, exploring cheesemaking and farmstead operations there.
Annie says goats are special pets and great animals to rear.
Their farm, on Waikareao Road, runs 60 goats and for eight months of the year, about 60 litres of milk a day is turned into 6kg of cheeses.
The cheesemaking operation is a two-person show.
“Technically, we have zero staff. Staff get paid and not sure if we pay anyone,” says Annie.
“Geoff and I work seven days a week and our children help us out when home from university.”
Eight varieties of Nieuwenhuis Farmstead Cheese are sold at Hawke’s Bay Farmers market, restaurants and boutique food stores.
“We want to stay as we are – small artisan producer, hands-on, consciously crafting our cheese from paddock to plate, connecting directly with our customers,” says Annie.
“Our secret is simple: our girls produce fresh, sweet, glorious milk which is turned into cheese within 30 minutes of milking. We just guide the milk along, balancing science and the art of letting the milk express itself into delectable cheeses,” says Annie.
Master Judge for the awards Jason Tarrant says the ability of a relatively small artisan producer to claim the top award was testament to New Zealand cheese industry’s growing diversity and skill.
“It is no small feat being up against some big players with more capital and plant to achieve this,” Tarrant said.
He says the NZ cheese industry was developing in a way similar to the beer industry, with craft beer akin to artisan cheesemakers creating some diverse and interesting cheese types.
Teamwork
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Annie Nieuwenhuis says goats are special pets and great animals to rear. |
Annie and Geoff Nieuwenhuis met while studying science at Massey University.
They settled for a rural lifestyle in the beautiful Hawke's Bay region.
For thirty years, Annie worked as a veterinarian while Geoff raised their five children and farmed the land. Annie brings her expertise in animal care and husbandry to ensure the goats are happy and healthy.
Geoff's background in horticulture and farming is well suited for maintaining the right feed for the goats. Together they've embarked on a new venture to make the best quality cheese from their own goat's milk.
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