Central Otago - Finding the perfect dozen
The Central Dozen isn’t about finding the “shiniest examples” of Central Otago Pinot Noir, says Felton Road Winemaker Blair Walter of a new annual selection programme.
"They have their own team that competes in the league," says Craggy Range National Vineyard Manager Jonathan Hamlet. "They run out there each weekend in their Craggy Range kit and boot a ball around." Which is exactly the kind of community involvement Craggy Range envisioned in the Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) scheme, then brought in their first crews from the Solomons and Vanuatu in 2021. "Our approach to our RSE workers is they are part of our family," Jonathan says. "They are making a massive sacrifice to come and work with us."
In October the company completed the RSE Village on a river terrace at the edge of a Te Muna vineyard, in a "critical link" in the process. "This has been the game changer," Jonathan says, talking of the importance of labour security. "Craggy Range is committed to Martinborough because we truly believe this is one of the most special regions on earth for Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc; however, it is a small community. For us to maintain the hands-on approach we take to farming each individual block, it would be impossible without the RSE scheme and the workers who now intimately know our vineyards."
The village is built for 48 workers, which is what Craggy Range needs most of the year, excluding a month after harvest and before budburst, when the requirement halves. Its current allocation of RSE workers is 20, so they are reliant on relationships developed with other companies, including a joint ATR (Agreement to Recruit) with Bostock in Hawke's Bay, which enables seasonal workers to tackle the apple harvest as well as the busiest vineyard periods in the Wairarapa. "There are really good synergies with other players," Jonathan says. Craggy Range ensures workers in Wairarapa who want to visit friends back in Hawke's Bay can, while also slotting in trips to watch a Phoenix game in Wellington, and regular fishing missions to Lake Ferry. "Nothing has been easy, but the rewards and relationships have been very positive." Their "RSE team" is largely coming back year after year, he adds. "That experience and knowledge of our vineyard is extremely valuable in raising the quality of how we farm." And the value goes both ways. "The guys are earning really good money to take home and make their families successful."
