Altogether Unique: Auckland

Then the first two weeks of January brought downpours, says Kumeu River Wines Winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW. “So we’re back to square one”.

The outlook is nonetheless relatively sunny, with a reasonable flowering and good fruit set, Michael says, noting that the rainfall was pre-veraison, so didn’t damage fruit “as long as it stays pretty dry from now on”. He’s anticipating a start date of about 10 February for Sparkling wine, followed by table wine later in the month.

Auckland is one of New Zealand’s oldest wine regions, established in the early 1900s by passionate Croatian, Lebanese and English winemakers, including Michael’s grandparents Mick and Katé, who came from Croatia with his father Maté in 1937. By 1944 they had saved enough money to purchase a 7-hectare block in Kumeu, which Mick and Maté cleared to plant in vines.

While such a rich history is integral to Auckland’s wine legacy, it is Chardonnay that has earned Kumeu River (as it’s now called) a global reputation, stacking up against the best in the world, with countless awards and accolades. Michael says the success illustrates how adaptable Chardonnay is to a number of different environments, including the winery’s small corner of West Auckland.