Exploring Place: The rise of Marlborough subregions

The region 'cut its teeth' blending Sauvignon Blanc batches into the best possible regional expression. But today there's an increasing number of producers keeping parcels separate, taking the opportunity to shine a spotlight on quality while highlighting the diversity of their region.

"I view the subregional development of Marlborough as a critical next step in Marlborough's evolution," says Sophie Parker-Thomson MW, co-owner of Blank Canvas Wines. In celebration of this year's International Sauvignon Blanc Day, regional organisation Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) hosted an InstaLive featuring Sophie and fellow master of wine Emma Jenkins, who discussed the validity of “subregionality”. They took viewers on a journey into the four corners of Marlborough to increase awareness for the diversity of New Zealand’s largest grape growing region.

“I was excited to talk to Emma about Marlborough’s pursuit of subregionality as her master of wine dissertation was on the same topic,” says Sophie. “It was interesting to discuss the ‘then and now’ and it was great to see genuine cross-over in styles within the subregions.”

Emma’s research paper examined Marlborough’s subregions and their opportunities amidst the GFC and in the wake of a larger 2008 vintage. “The acceptance of terroir as important in fine wine is absolute,” she wrote. “The pursuit of subregionalism as a mechanism for exploring and defining wines implies the same quality consideration and ambition and moves it away from commoditisation. History shows that the quality classics of the world have strong regional and subregional focus and anchor in terroir: this is the path that stretches before Marlborough.”

Twelve years later, Marlborough is embracing its subregions. As the industry and plantings mature, wine brands are offering multiple expressions of a single varietal within their portfolio. Supporting this development is the science and sensory data that has become available to the industry, says Emma. “Dr Wendy Parr and her colleagues have validated subregional differences. And industry gate-keeper research strengthens the region’s refocus, as key markets such as the US and UK have said that premium wine regions should be looking at subregions as they develop. It is important that Marlborough provides consumers a quality ladder to climb."

The question now seems to be, ‘when will consumers be ready for Marlborough sub-regionality?’ Mel Brown of Heist Hospitality Group in the UK suggests they’re not quite there yet. “I know our Kiwi winemakers want to celebrate their corner of dirt to celebrate their terroir and style, and showcase their expressions of subregionality. But sadly, a real lack of awareness here restricts consumers looking beyond brand New Zealand or, best case scenario, Marlborough.”

Master sommelier Cameron Douglas has been working closely with USA’s hospitality sector over the past decade and believes its consumers are of a similar status. “Purchases are predominantly price driven and consumers are more familiar and concerned with sourcing and drinking named brands and/or wines from specific regions,” says Cameron. “Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is an example of something they feel confident reaching for. Likewise, Pinot Noir from Central Otago carries more weight than a Pinot Noir from, say, Bannockburn, Central Otago.”

Cameron adds that “it certainly holds a lot of interest” and Marlborough should and needs to continue exploring and showcasing its subregions. “But it is up to the producers, industry organisations and gatekeepers to raise awareness for subregionality by using the names of subregions on a regular basis, so they become as recognised as the region they belong to. Messaging needs to be more than just, ‘buy New Zealand’. “

Marlborough has historically been broken into three grape growing regions: the Wairau Valley, Southern Valleys and Awatere Valley. It has become apparent that within these subregions there are distinct macro climates that can be individually identified. Arguably, wineries such as Saint Clair, Wither Hills and Astrolabe led the way with single vineyard offerings, but many producers including Giesen, Blank Canvas and Rapaura Springs are also embracing the path.

“As early as 2002, we were making a single subregional wine from the Waihopai Valley,” says Astrolabe founder and winemaker, Simon Waghorn. Labelling their wines subregionally followed shortly thereafter, with Astrolabe’s Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc in 2005 and Kēkerengū Coast Sauvignon Blanc in 2006. “I believed that there would be a high level of interest from sommeliers and discerning consumers to explore the interesting sub-regional districts that make up the Marlborough appellation,” says Simon. “I thought this would enhance the credibility of Marlborough as a fine wine region and add variety and more depth to the storytelling. I also believed it gave more opportunities to find homes on wine lists where sommeliers already had a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.”

Having judged Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs in wine shows, he is well aware of the breadth and diversity of wines from the region. “I believe it is important to reinforce this diversity by showcasing wines that have particularly defined character relating to their terroir.”

Saint Clair’s marketing manager and director, Sarina Ibbottson, says consumer interest is real and growing. “Markets are asking for exclusive listings of our single vineyard and subregional wines. It’s pleasing to see this increase in consumer interest and comprehension.”

Launched in 2005, Saint Clair’s single vineyard Pioneer Block range is the result of Neal and Judy Ibbotson’s enthusiasm for producing premium, quality driven wines, says senior winemaker Stewart Maclennan. “And our desire to continually learn and develop knowledge. Myself and the winemaking team love exploring the relationship between soil, climate, site, vine stress (or lack thereof), and quality.”

Wither Hills saw potential for single vineyard wines around the same time. “2007 was a great vintage and it really showed what some of our key vineyard sites could do,” says head winemaker Matt Large. “We wanted to pull out parcels from the bigger blends to show that vineyard selection was a key part in the winemaking process. We also wanted to showcase the influence different soil structures and climate had on growing grapes and making wine.” Matt says he’s welcomed an increase of questions about subregions, both from overseas and from visitors to the winery. Matt has his eye on the Southern Valleys, saying that the Wither Hills Taylor River vineyard is a personal favourite.

Newer to labelling their wines with vineyard designations is Rapaura Springs, who released their first single vineyard wine in 2016 and launched their subregional range, Rohe, in 2018. “It stemmed from a desire to show (consumers) the diversity of Marlborough that we have seen over the years,” says consultant winemaker Matt Thomson. “The beauty about sub-regional definition is that it is up to producers like us, with defined fruit sources, to champion the strengths of their vineyards.” When asked if there is consumer appetite for these wines, Matt said absolutely for the more engaged consumer. “Up till now we, as a region, haven’t been good at highlighting the nuances that make the differences in expression.”

Stewart Maclennan

“Rapaura Springs is heavily invested in Dillons Point as a subregion,” says Matt. “We think one day it will be regarded as a cru of Marlborough. It has a wonderful and intense tropical expression of Sauvignon with a mineral-rich salinity on the palate.”

The power and future of subregional Marlborough appears to be in the hands of producers and industry bodies. ‘New Zealand Wine’ is wholly recognised and asked for, but how will Marlborough encourage consumers to take a step closer? “The USA is going to be key with regards to early adopters,” says Duncan Shouler, chief winemaker at Giesen Group. “And also younger age group consumers coming through in well established markets such as the centres in Australia.”

Giesen’s first single vineyard wine hailed from the 2012 vintage. “For us, it was a fantastic opportunity to showcase the sub-regional soils and climate in our wine,” says Duncan. Though he admits that consumer interest is relatively low at present, he says, “where it does exist though, it certainly adds value.”

Check out the Instalive event at bit.ly/AMWinstalive