Staying relevant with SWNZ
“The cost of sustainability is in the now. The cost of not doing anything is in the future,” says Tim Nowell-Usticke, founder and director of WineWorks and the new Chair of New Zealand Winegrowers’ Environment Committee.
But anyone meeting Elaine Chukan Brown, one of the keynote speakers at September's Aotearoa Chardonnay Symposium, would be unlikely to come away surprised.
Their obvious intelligence, practicality, perceptiveness and humour leaves no doubt that this is someone with an impressively broad skillset. The native Alaskan now residing in Sonoma, California, is the current Napa reviewer for Wine Enthusiast and co-founder of the Diversity in Wine Leadership Forum, was the former United States editor for JancisRobinson.com, and was awarded the 2020 IWSC Wine Communicator of the Year.
Elaine is thrilled to be heading to Hawke's Bay to deepen their understanding of what they regard as one of New Zealand's most exciting varieties. From a US standpoint, "the understanding of New Zealand Chardonnay is still limited", they say. "A few of the well-known brands are discussed in the sommelier community, but there is neither broad nor in-depth knowledge of it otherwise. At the wider consumer level there is not much recognition of New Zealand Chardonnay."
Elaine sees some challenges in our largest export market. "The price point after tariffs, import taxes, etc. makes the best wines of New Zealand, which generally speaking tend to have more moderate volume, harder to sell elsewhere," the explain. "And the higher volume wines need to set themselves apart if they are to become a price point leader. Just as Marlborough has so successfully found its distinctive flavour in Sauvignon Blanc, if Chardonnay can find that unique regional character somewhere in New Zealand, the whole world will hunt for it."
Attendees of last year's symposium will recall the impassioned advice from US writer Christina Pickard, who urged producers to showcase their authenticity and really tell their story. This year's programme has a strong emphasis on the concept of 'Place', and Elaine, speaking on California and other topics, is joined by geologist and terroir specialist Brenna Quigly, who will explain the mechanics of terroir and how it might be perceived in the glass, whilst renowned Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW will examine terroir through the lens of Burgundy.
While Chardonnay is often referred to as a "winemaker's grape", Elaine says in reality the picture is far more nuanced. "Chardonnay is one of the most place expressive varieties while also growing decently in a range of conditions. It is often described as a neutral grape because it does carry cellar choices so well. But I view cellar and place in equal proportion for the variety, which is unique."
New Zealand's signature, is all about "the electric acidity", they say. "I describe it as a high wattage lightbulb wearing a diffusing lens - elevated and stimulating but the edges are softened to pleasurable brightness." Day two brings a deep dive into clones, Aotearoa case studies, as well as Australia and Burgundy tastings, wrapping up what is sure to be another exciting, thought-provoking symposium.
Elaine will be familiar to many in the New Zealand wine industry for the moving closing speech they gave at Pinot Noir New Zealand 2017. Since then they have visited numerous times, most recently for last year's Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference, and have also presented New Zealand wine at ProWein and Texsom amongst other events.
If you see Elaine without a glass of Chardonnay in hand at September's symposium, see if they need a pie. "My life dream continues to be someday having the opportunity to judge the national pie awards, or if that is an honour too high to hope for, then at least witness time." Bakels, you heard it here first!
