Chardonnay Symposium: Exploring a sense of place

Master of Ceremonies Stephen Wong MW outlined New Zealand Chardonnay's reputation and potential, urging delegates to use the symposium to connect, share and learn; he also selected eight New Zealand "classic, benchmark and archetypal" wines, which had delegates contemplating diversity via regional and winemaking styles.

Writer and speaker Elaine Chukan Brown opened with a philosophical session drawing upon their upbringing to explain how the place we grow up in shapes us, profoundly influencing how we go on to cultivate and interpret our environment. Culture encompasses people, history, values, expectations and experiences which evolve over time, they said, in turn affecting how we engage with land.

Geologist Brenna Quigley followed, explaining terroir as a complete physical environment, including bedrock, soil, topography, aspect, climate, weather and human traditions, suggesting that understanding geology - the "immovable" component of terroir - helps people become better stewards and communicators of their land, and make wine that transcends "just a drink". Brenna believes that "tasting terroir" involves recognising textural differences, such as a sense of linearity or power on the back palate, and that these are influenced by geological characteristics, using geological aspects from Napa and the Cote d'Or to illustrate the perception of terroir in their Chardonnay.

Steve Smith MW offered an impassioned speech on New Zealand's Chardonnay evolution and likely future, outlining what makes it unique. In his inimitable manner, Jasper Morris MW examined place through the lens of white Burgundy, covering its origins, style and winemaking evolution, including climate impacts on ripeness and picking dates. He amusingly noted how Burgundians will claim their wines faithfully reflect each vintage, all the while describing the tricks they've used to balance any extremes. His tasting explored Chablis, Côte d’Or and Mâconnais, before we switched back to Elaine who had chosen a clever combination of four Carneros wines linked either by region and/or producer to illustrate the impact of site, producer ethos and winemaking style.

Elaine believes that most consumers are seeking simply "a sense of place rather than needing to understand the technicality of place". Within a whistlestop tour of California Chardonnay's history and evolution, they noted a striking geological similarity between New Zealand and California, which both have right and lateral transverse fault systems of comparable age and size, although within very different environmental and cultural contexts.

Day two took a technical turn, with Braden Crosby, from Bragato Research Institute, leading a panel discussion and microvin tasting delving into key clonal aspects of wine chemistry, regional differences and quality/quantity, and how these considerations might best be navigated by researchers, nurseries and producers.

Regional case studies began with Blair Walter of Felton Road in Central Otago, where increasing plantings are bucking the national trend. Blair discussed how styles have progressed from the early wines that “were a little shrill” to today’s more mineral and restrained wines, which are appreciated by international audiences. Blair also outlined Felton Road’s ongoing commitment to environmental and cultural sustainability via its B-Corp and International Wineries for Climate Action memberships.

Bell Hill’s Sherwyn Veldhuizen gave a thoughtful, moving reflection on what it took to establish and run her and Marcel Giesen’s tiny, challenging, yet thrilling North Canterbury vineyard, which is right on the limit of cool climate viticulture. “It folds its arms and says, ‘show me what you can do’,” she said. “It demands from you, challenges you and exposes you; it tests you well and you have to earn it… and only then will it unfold its arms and hold you in its warm, white light.” The hard work was evident in the remarkable pair of wines she showed, which displayed almost no colour change despite a ten-year difference in age. Isabel Estate’s Jeremy McKenzie wrapped up with a clear-eyed assessment of the reinvigoration of their Marlborough brand and vineyards, with a deluge of accolades seeing demand outpace supply. Isabel is a rare Marlborough producer pulling out Sauvignon Blanc to plant Chardonnay.

Sam Connew of Stargazer in Tasmania presented an informative session on the island’s Chardonnays. Its distinctive cool, dry climate delivers natural acidity, low pH, and high flavour intensity with low sugars and yields, commanding premium pricing for both still and sparkling wines. Sam argued that Australian Chardonnay styles are generally more producer-driven, with the possible exception of Western Australia’s Margaret River.

Australian wine tourism expert Robin Shaw encouraged wineries to focus on how they made customers feel, arguing that sensorial and immersive experiences foster lasting memories. Visitors then go home to share these with friends and family, building deeper, more enduring connections to their brands. She offered practical advice on the value of creating memorable experiences that connect visitors to stories and places.

Returning to Burgundy, Jasper provided an overview of its challenges and future prospects, highlighting climate change and socioeconomic pressures, such as pricing and succession planning. With vini/viti adaptations already being made, he felt Chardonnay would likely be better equipped than Pinot Noir to handle warming climates (at least in the short term) but anticipated style shifts would become apparent first in Chablis and Puligny-Montrachet.

Land cost and succession taxes were frequently driving ownership changes, and talented winemakers were moving to ‘lesser’ areas and producing “wines that make one smile”. Jasper identified emerging “sweet spot” communes and suggested Aligoté was a grape to watch.

Stephen, Elaine and Brenna joined Jasper for a final wide-ranging discussion linking the symposium’s threads. Brenna pointed out that New Zealand Chardonnay didn’t seem to be seeking to emulate places elsewhere, instead searching for its own identity. Elaine felt this was rooted in fruit purity aligned to an electric acid signature, but Jasper thought most consumers, “don’t want to hear about acidity… that doesn’t sound good to them. Instead, tell a story about natural vivacity and vibrancy”. He noted that while wine professionals may grasp New Zealand Chardonnay’s distinctiveness, there was still a need for a clear cohesive message to reach broader audiences adding, to applause, “the wines I’ve tasted this week absolutely deserve that”.