The concept of single vineyard wines has become fundamental to Pinot Noir, largely due to the Cistercian Burgundian model.
For some winemakers, this is predetermined by their vineyard, but for others it represents a deliberate pursuit.
Sophie Parker-Thomson MW, co-owner of Blank Canvas with her husband Matt Thomson, says it was the only way forward. "We are big believers in the detail and focus you get from a specific site, which gets lost when blended away. It's why we chose to be 100% single vineyard bottlings from day one. It creates the opportunity to learn more about your own sites, subregions and region, and by extension provides that same opportunity to consumers and gatekeepers."
Matt helped develop Saint Clair's single vineyard-focused Pioneer Block wines more than 25 years ago, born out of a frustration of blending away tanks that looked special. "When we started making the individual Pioneer Block wines, we had quite a bit of push-back from people who thought that consumers wouldn't be interested. They were wrong." He notes that a sense of place is crucial to "high involvement consumers" and sommeliers, who always want to engage and learn. "As soon as this group think they know all there is to know about a region then they lose interest."
Sophie believes it's an exciting time for Pinot Noir as more producers pursue single vineyard wines, seeing it as a sign of maturity in our young industry. The model also benefits growers, whose pride increases when their grapes are bottled as a single vineyard wine, she says. With relationships spanning 25 to 30 years, and a shared commitment to quality, they trust their partners will grow exceptional fruit. "We're small in the Marlborough scheme, but connecting growers with the business reinforces why quality over quantity matters. We pay more for grapes, expecting high quality in return."
It's a "no-brainer" in a market where New Zealand's global reputation is about quality. "Single vineyard wines uphold and enhance that perception, aligning with the trend of consumers drinking less but better," Sophie says. "We'd rather make wines some people love than ones everyone just quite likes."