Haere Ra 2024: Waitaki
Te Kano Winemaker Dave Sutton looks at an excellent growing season against the pressure of competing land use.
This year Kumeu River Winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW was named 2024 Winemakers' Winemaker by the Institute of Masters of Wine, and a 2024 New Zealand Winegrowers Fellow.
With a lifetime of experience in Auckland wine, Michael reflects on the highs and lows of the year.
The Good
After the difficulties of the 2023 season, and the saturated soils from high rainfall, the 2024 season started well, with nice even budburst throughout the vineyards. Things were looking very good, until a short spell of wet and cold weather just on flowering meant that some decrease in yield was certainly to be expected. The rest of the growing season was excellent, with mostly dry and warm conditions. While other parts of the country experienced quite high temperatures, ours in Kumeu were just moderately warm, and never exceeded 29C. This resulted in very steady and even berry maturation, with beautiful aroma and flavour development right up until harvest.
The Bad
Our earlier fears about yield were justified. In Kumeu we were down by about 35%, and I hear similar stories from around the region. Quantities of all our wines will be low this year, but on the positive side the quality across the board is outstanding. So far in spring 2024 we have had an excellent budburst and no frost events, so we look forward, anxiously, to a (hopefully) good flowering and set.
The Awesome
Chardonnay wines, particularly the Single Vineyards, are shining examples of the Kumeu style. The terroir differences between various parcels are very distinct, really highlighting their individual personalities. Pinot Gris is also very strong this year with high sugar levels, and with some botrytis influence producing rich and textural wines. Internationally, the Chardonnay wines continue to earn outstanding recognition as world-class, and in some respects world-leading. At a time when sales in many wine categories are in decline, it is gratifying that New Zealand wines at the premium and luxury level continue to be in strong demand.
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