Eighteen wines were placed under the microscope, five of those from New Zealand, the rest from a kaleidoscope of countries, including Argentina, Canada, France, America and Australia. All were from the 2010 vintage.
What was apparent when the wines were revealed after the tasting, was the huge gap in prices being paid for each. The most expensive tasted on the day, (if you could actually get it) was Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Clos De Vougeot 2010 at NZ$200.
Compare that to the five New Zealand wines that ranged in price from $38 to $75. The three Australian examples averaged $75, while the Argentinian, American and Canadian examples were all around the $100.
Not surprisingly, questions were raised about the price of New Zealand Pinot Noir. Are we underselling ourselves? Does it take a large price tag for a wine to be considered ‘great’? Or do we promote that oft overused phrase, that we produce good value for money?
As one attendee pointed out, is that really how we want to be known – good value for money? Does that phrase tell the story we want to convey? Maybe it’s time we took a different approach. Or maybe we just look at raising our price point to reflect the undeniable quality.
Wine judge, sommelier and writer Sophie Otton from Australia, who was a guest selector at this year’s event, warned that may be easy to say, but not so easy to achieve.
“It is a case by case scenario, and a vintage by vintage as well. You can’t just suddenly push your prices up. It has to be a strategy from the start I think. Once you set your prices, you have to have a way forward, but you can’t be random about it.”
In terms of the New Zealand wines in the line-up, Otton, who is also a judge at this year’s Air New Zealand Wine Awards, said they were very consistent.
“That was the word on the floor as well. They have good balance and good intensity. If you haven’t got balance, you haven’t got the variety.”
Keeping the refinement in our Pinots was an important step into the future, she said. People already liked the richness in our wines and the flavour. “And it’s only going to get better. You should celebrate that.”
While Pinot Noir may have been the focus of the daylong event, food also played a major role. Des Harris from Clooney’s Restaurant and a finalist in the Chef of the Year Competition, prepared a five course long lunch, served to the guests in Cloudy Bay’s barrel room. From wild game to lobster with puffed crackling, plus lamb and fermented garlic, the courses were matched to wines.
But at the end of the day there was more than just food for the sating, there was food for thought for many of the wine industry personnel who attended. Where to from here, and just how do we ensure our the quality of our Pinots is reflected in the balance sheet? ν
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