The Profile: Bart Arnst

He's likely had little time to consider his title of Gourmet Traveller Wine Viticulturist of the Year 2022, but I ask whether it's significant that an organic viticulturist has once again secured the title.

"Not really, because more and more people are coming to understand that it is, quite possibly, the best way forward - for the industry and for the country," Bart says. "It fits right into the overall regenerative agriculture movement, which is replicating what organic farmers have been doing for a long time."

Growing up in Ashburton, Bart felt he ws always going to do 'something in horticulture', despite a brief foray into banking after leaving school. "But I was big on rugby then, so was always showing up at work on Mondays with a black eye or stitches, which wasn't really a good loock at the counter", he says.

A couple of lightbulb moments proved pivotal to his conversion. "I was working in landscaping in London, and got told to spray herbicide... This was completely foreign to me as... we had always dug weeds out, or mowed them", he says. Then, once he had people to manage, he observed the protective gear that was required to handle some of the chemicals being used in gardening. "It didn't sit well that I was getting other people to deal with this material."

Once back in New Zealand, having gained a three-year horticultural qualification and work experience on a vineyard, Bart started to research how grape growing had evolved prior to widespread chemical use. "I looked backwards", he explains. His employer at the time, Montana, allowed him to run a small experimental block in Marlborough. "They let me have a play down the back of the property where no-one - particularly the Board of Directors - would go." Bart remains grateful that Montana enabled him to demonstrate that it was more than possible to have a future in organic wine growing. That experiment confirmed his path, as well as netting the company a local environmental award.

In the 1990s there was just a sprinkling of organic wine growers around the country, with a few leaders including James Millton in Gisborne. Montana was growing considerably and Bart felt he was more deskbound than hands-on in the soil, where he wanted to be. Fortunately, his work had also attracted the attention of others in the industry, and he took up an offer to work at Seresin Estate, converting its vineyard to organic.

A variety of paths are taken towards organic wine growing; for some growers it's a gradual process towards certification - perhaps dipping their toes in until a level of confidence is achieved - while others go all in from the start. Bart believes either approah works, but it helps to have a plan.

What has steadily changed over the years is the progression for many from 'dabbling' with organic practices to becoming certified. However, many more orthodox vineyards are now using standard organic practices - such as cover crops and mechanical weed control - without intending to become fully organic. Currently about 10% of New Zealand wineries hold organic certification, with Central Otago having the highest percentage at roughly one fifth of its plantings. Malrborough has less than 4%, and while the organic area is increasing, the ratio is declining.

Organic vineyards now spray about the same number of times in the season as conventional growers, and haven't become subject to spray resistance build-up, according to Bart. Anecdotal evidence has shown organic fruit tends to be very clean, helped by the thicker skins that the fruit develops as a result of not using chemical sprays.

On being asked about business reluctance to becoming organic, Bart believes it is simply about tonnages; in general, a higher tonnage requires synthetic fertilisers and a different business model. "A lot of organic growers are in the business for the long term, and have an eye on the big picture."

Early in 2000, on the strength of increasing phone calls from vineyards asking for advice on alternatives to some of the chemicals in use, Bart identified a need for mentorship and advice, so set up a consultancy. Some of those who became clients wished to become certified but weren't confident of a market for their grapes. In a tidy loop, Bart was able to offer to take thr grapes for the new organic wine label he and Chris Darling were about to launch. "So I was able to help them to develop their organic vineyard, while guaranteeing we would take the grapes - a win-win really", he says. The Darling label still sources all its grapes from fully certified growers, and currently exports mainly to Australia, the United Kingdom, Scandinavia and Japan.

I ask Bart about the intersection between organic and biodynamics. Biodynamics is a step further, he explains; while biodynamic practitioners include most organic practices, they also add the use of preparations and farming in accordance with moon phases. While Bart has a number of clients employing biodynamic techniques, he sees it as an overall philosophy, as much as a way to farm. "The people that are very good at biodynamic and organic horticulture are good farmers anyway, and in it for the long game", he says. Failure seems to result from people assuming it's going to be an easier path, but there are no quick fixes. "Good farming is, among other things, about recognising problems early, and then working out what to do - which can be a lifelong process", he says.

While any time is a good time to go organic, Bart believes it's more pressing in a time of acceleratec climate change. Organic horticulture promotes carbon sequestration by adding organic matter to the soil; for instance, many vineyards are now crimper rolling rather than mowing. Work is already going on to evolve canopy management techniques as the weather gets hotter, but major 'climate events' are going to be more difficult to manage. Continuing to build organic matter in the soil will help with absorption of excess water as well as mitigate drought conditions.

While Bart says he never set out to be an ambassador for organic viticulture, he feels a justifiable pride in being part of the organic wine growing movement in New Zealand, and helping organic growers to find their place in the market. Consumer demand for evidence of environmental stewardship is increasing, and Bart cannot foresee an oversupply of organic wines.

He sees his award as an acknowledgement from wine writers, possibly reflecting an indication of their thinking as to where the industry may head. He in turn acknowledges the many individuals who have been leaders in the movement, as well as the huge amount of work done by the executive committee of Organic Winegrowers New Zealand (OWNZ). Playing a key role in the successful inception and growth of the OWNZ conference has provded particularly gratifying to Bart, who believes it is indicative of the level of interest in the movement.

Now, all he needs to do is find a bit of spare time to indulge his other passions of freshwater fishing, mountain biking, and - his lockdown discovery - virtual cycle touring. No carbon offsets required there.

Desert Island Wishlist

Wine - Shared with friends

Meal - Any BBQ roast with my wife's salads or veggies

Album - Massive Attack Blue Lines

Book/Magazine - Any fishing, biking or nature mag