How then can a wine reach the lofty heights of desirability; a following, a ‘must-buy-whatever-the-cost culture’?
Some of the answers are presented in ‘Red Obsession’ a docu-movie - narrated by Russell Crowe – which explores and investigates the high powered, high stakes trade of ‘cult status’ classed growth Bordeaux wine. From historical, traditional and romantic beginnings with some glorious vintages over 150 years - to the outrageous prices paid for Cru Classé wines by collectors (the movie focuses on the China market) this is a film that challenges what we understand about global wine trade in particular Bordeaux wines, and in particular their unprecedented following.
Released in 2013 the film also shares some rather frank opinions and ideas on the topic by noteworthy wine critics including Jancis Robinson MW, Oz Clarke and Andrew Caillard MW. The film review web-site ‘Rotten Tomatoes’ awards 4.5 Stars, and I would recommend watching it to anyone pondering the idea of why uber-wealthy Chinese, for example, might want to pay such inflated prices for wine that they are unlikely to ever drink; or how the opinion of wine critics apparently gives licence to high-end Bordeaux wine producers to seriously inflate their wholesale prices – and why not! (The Robert Parker syndrome is touched on, but that is a story for another day)
Red Obsession also reminds me of the various ways in which wine can reach ‘Cult’ status, and whether this can, in fact continue - given the way in which social media and wine apps can cheer or slam wine in an instant. The impact of the opinion of notable wine critics is discussed in the film; the prices can be driven so ferociously high that the wine, presumably of outstanding quality, becomes available only to the uber rich, and as a luxurious status symbol; the rarity of a wine may mean more people seek that one last case – collectors hunting the elusive ‘perfect’ vintage. The answer must lie somewhere in the way a culture of ‘must have’ is grown, nurtured and developed over many years.
At a recent Pinot Noir Conference, a well known producer said that if you make people believe there are fewer examples of your finest wine available, the demand for it can increase - pushing some into a ‘must buy’ frenzy is a clever tactic (though it can sometimes backfire when, for example, a vintage may not deliver), and when demand increases exponentially the pathway to wine stardom becomes apparent.
Few wines reach the ‘luxury item’ category and remain there. The great red and white wines of Bordeaux fit this category, with their history and provenance, and while some vintage conditions have not worked in their favour, they manage to keep wine lists interesting and those who cannot afford them wishing they could. Screaming Eagle and Opus One, Penfolds Grange, Fritz Haag Grosses Gewachs and our own Stonyridge Larose are arguably wines that have met ‘X’ criteria: they can make a wine list look impressive - but when their tipping point in their ‘Cultness’ occurred would make for interesting research.
The answer should be a combination of hard work, great fruit, outstanding wine making, consistency, a very smart wine label and a marketing campaign that is subtle and unrivalled. Overworked as the term is, ‘globalisation’ is opening doors for showcasing excellence in our own wines. ν
