With only 1200 residents and over 50 vineyards, the buzz of anticipation at harvest time is palpable. It’s everywhere. It’s personal.
Always ready to add a “so far” caution about harvest conditions and the season’s outlook, under-stated Martinborough winemakers are quietly optimistic that this is going to be “a very good one. Maybe a really good one.”
They are not quite ready to describe it as excellent (like last year); although by the time you read this they will know.
2013 was a golden summer in Martinborough, and simply remembering it brings smiles to winemakers. Nga Waka’s Roger Parkinson described it as “a Goldilocks season; neither too hot nor too cold, not too wet or too dry.”
Record sunshine hours were balanced by the district’s trademark cool nights, slowly developing the complex flavours and ageing potential Martinborough is known for.
Martinborough wineries are very excited about 2013, with some white varieties already receiving critical acclaim and bright prospects for wines still maturing gently in tank and barrel. Sneak preview tastings have ratcheted up the excitement level.
As Martinborough Vineyard’s Paul Mason says “If there is a grower or winemaker unhappy with the 2013 season, they are unlikely ever to be happy.”
2014 got off to a fast hot start in December, cooled down in January and warmed up again in February and March. The fruit is looking very good. The crop is heavy but slightly down on last year, and that’s generally agreed to be fine.
The tantalising prospect of back-to-back “excellent seasons” is invigorating the district.
A more commercial buzz of excitement also echoes around the village. Changes are afoot with some vineyards changing hands and new labels being established as demand rises for Martinborough’s appellation.
“New people bring new skills, dynamism and resources to the district,” says Wines From Martinborough Chair Margaret Hanson (The Elder Pinot).
“We see vineyards being refreshed, more investment in branding and distribution and the overall quality of the region going from strength to strength.
“Vineyards that have proved their worth are being bought up as the original owners reach a stage of wanting to do different things. Unlike Europe, there is little New Zealand heritage of inheriting vineyards,” she observes.
John Kavanagh (Te Kairanga Wines) comments that parent company Foley Family Wines “sees an exciting opportunity to produce fine wine from one of New Zealand’s great wine producing areas.
“They are willing to invest significantly in the vineyards and winery, and down the distribution chain to international markets.
“Consumer respect for the Martinborough region is central to the ongoing success of all vineyards here. We see vitality, fine product quality and growth potential.”
Underpinning this confidence is the acknowledgement that the small artisan district has a made-to-measure combination of terroir and vine age to create wines of distinction. After nearly 30 years in the district, Larry McPinot himself adds an important factor – winemaker age!
2014 is shaping up to be a very good year for Martinborough. The grapes are full of flavour, there is an air of confidence about the challenge of change and the future is promising for the unique wine village with its focus on premium artisan wines.
It’s that indefinable X-factor that had one wine writer say happily after tasting a 2003 Pinot Noir recently “this is what I want in a Pinot Noir”. ν
